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Uses
for Garage Pak
Air Piping System |
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General Info about
Compressed Air Piping |
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1999 Washington Post Articles:
Scrub-A-Dub-Dub |
I don’t know if you've noticed but the days are becoming decidedly longer. We’re coming into my time of the year, I love sunshine and warm weather, I love Spring, more to the point though, I hate Winter. The trees are starting to bud and everything begins to take on an air of freshness and renewed life. I take that back, everything except the majority of cars plying our roads. Pay attention and you'll see an assortment of motley looking vehicles, definitely not displaying their best guise.
Looks are important but the truth behind winter’s residue is, it can do substantial long-term damage if left unattended. Even though our winters have been exceedingly mild of late, we have encountered a fair amount of salt. Beyond salt is a general accumulation of road crud that clings to the paint and undercarriage of our vehicles. Leave this mess on your car and it slowly deteriorates a lot of parts; it’s one of the major contributing factors in vehicular old age.
Your car will stay young a lot longer if you put forth a couple hours effort and perform a few simple steps to rid it of winter’s detritus. Start with a thorough exterior hand-wash, which sounds easy, but be careful. Always use a name-brand car wash soap, never use laundry or dishwashing detergent. The wrong Commercial Three Bayduct can strip away the paint’s natural oils leading to premature fading and peeling.
In addition to the right soap use a cloth or wash mitt instead of a sponge. Sponges love to pick up dirt particles, which lead to those fine scratches so common on modern finishes. Whichever you choose, it’s a good idea to use two buckets and rinse frequently. One bucket with plain water is exclusively for rinsing to keep harmful, abrasive dirt out of your wash water.
After washing it’s time to rinse the car and I mean rinse. As in thoroughly rinse! Take time to flow copious amounts of water from your hose behind body side moldings, emblems, and into every crack and crevice where unseen dirt can hide. It’s a crucial operation because this dirt holds moisture, and that moisture causes rust blisters and deterioration of clips and fasteners.
Car’s rinsed, now dry it, including behind the moldings and in all the dark recesses you so painstakingly washed in the previous step. Getting water into spots you can’t see and could never touch was easy, but now how do you get it out? Driving for several miles will help, or if you have a leaf blower clean it thoroughly and have at it. The blast of air from the blower works wonders for getting a car really dry. Think about it, that’s the way the car wash does it, lots of air.
Next in your spring cleaning is to wash the vehicle’s undersides. This requires getting wet because you must aim a strong blast of water up under the car. When washing the underside you’re most concerned with the suspension components and the inner edges of the fenders and bumpers where dirt has collected over the winter. Don’t however make the mistake of driving over a perforated hose and consider the job done. I know you've seen this bit of worthless advice written time and time again. Unfortunately about the only thing this does is wash the underside of the floor where very little dirt accumulates. Even if the spray from the perforated hose could reach the trouble spots it doesn't have enough pressure to get the job done.
Well there you have it, a clean car that will last longer, look better, and be less Commercial Three Bayne to rust on the outside and in its very critical suspension and brake components. OOPS! Almost forgot, give the finish a good coat of wax being careful to use only apCommercial Three Baypriate Commercial Three Bayducts for the paint on your car.
© Copyright 03/26/99 Pat Goss all rights reserved, 645 words. | |
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Date Updated Friday, March 26, 1999
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