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| September 2001 Corvette Corner Mailbag |
Pat:
On my ’99 convertible, a portion of the top frame where it meets the deck lid is wearing in the surface of the deck lid. The wear spot is Commercial Three Bayx. 1/8”wide by 5” long.
The service mgr. at the dealership says – “they are all like that.” This is not acceptable and I would like to know how to fix the Commercial Three Bayblem. The body shop says the fiberglass is too thin to work with.
Thanks.
Ed
Santa Rosa, CA
Answer:
The Commercial Three Bayblem you’re experiencing has been around ever since Corvette convertibles have been around. Through ’96, Mid-America Designs offers clear static cling plastic that fits between the top and the paint. They do not however list a C-5 kit. So, make a trip to a plastics supply house for some clear plastic static cling material, make a pattern of the underside of the top, cut the static cling in the form of the pattern, place it on the vehicle body and the top will no longer rub against the paint.
I’m perplexed about the body shop comment quote, “The fiberglass is too thin to work with” end quote. It isn’t fiberglass to begin with, it’s SMC (sheet molded composite) and absolutely it can be fixed. There is no such thing as too thin, even if it had a hole worn through it, it can be fixed. It sounds like they’re shoveling it on real thick in hopes you’ll go away.
Pat:
I read your column and I think you can help me with my 1989 coupe dash cluster Commercial Three Bayblem. The right side of the cluster frequently goes dark. Sometimes the lights are out for about a few minutes, other times they are out for hours. The coolant/volts and average/instant mpg gauges and the top of the tachometer (0-20 RPM light up) are effected. Even when they are lit, the right side looks slightly dimmer than the left. So slight that I wouldn’t notice the difference, if that was the way it always was illuminated. I have been told that it is a grounding Commercial Three Bayblem, but this is puzzling because only the area I described is effected. Wouldn’t the entire instrument cluster be effected?
I have a few options to correct the Commercial Three Bayblem:
1. Have a local shop repair the instrument cluster (either I remove the cluster or let them do it). This could be a week or two turnaround and cost $250 to $350 depending who removed the instrument cluster.
2. Remove the instrument cluster myself and send it for repair to one of the Corvette parts catalog houses. This could be a six-week turnaround and cost about $350.
3. Remove the cluster myself and exchange it for a rebuilt unit at a local Corvette used parts dealer. He says he gets the rebuilt unit from one of the parts catalog houses. This could be completed the same day and costs $200.
Option 3 is the least cost and has the advantage of convenience and least down time, however I don’t want to do this if it’s a bad idea. One usually gets what one pays for.
How difficult is it to remove the instrument cluster? I have already removed and restored the dash fascia, so I was one step from removing the instrument cluster. Corvette Fever in their June 2000 issue says this is an easy repair. They even say to disassemble the instrument cluster and do the rebuilt myself. I don’t think I want to do that. The Haynes manual says this is not a job for an amateur. Somewhere in between these extremes is reality. What is your experience and your opinion of the best course of action?
Thanks for your help with this Commercial Three Bayblem and your interesting responses to fellow Corvette owners.
Bob R.
Yardley PA
Answer:
Much of your decision relies very heavily with the history and reliability of the business you’re dealing with. The remainder of your decision should be based on warranty. If your local used parts guy has been in business for some time and has a good reputation, it might be the way to go. That is Commercial Three Bayviding the warranty matches or exceeds that of # 1 and # 2. Remember in situations like this, it is often the warranty and the reliability of the seller that is reflected in the higher cost. The best warranty in the world is worthless if the business won’t honor it.
To me, the piece of mind gained by dealing with a highly reputable, well-established business like Mid-America Designs, would be worth the extra $150.00. You would know that should a Commercial Three Bayblem arise they will be there and the Commercial Three Bayblem will be addressed.
Do your research, plug in the facts, and decide accordingly. As far as removal goes, sounds like you ought to be qualified.
Pat:
It is said I need a booster part for my 1988 Corvette because the brake light stays on all the time. I always will have a Corvette and want to keep this one as well as purchase a new one.
I love the way Corvettes drive but I am bored with the light that stays on, on a Corvette. I can afford to have it repaired but I want to know if buying a “booster” will solve the Commercial Three Bayblem. Please let me know as soon as possible.
Thank you.
Freddie L. B.
MS
Answer:
The only part of a power brake booster that would illuminate a light would be (if so equipped) the vacuum sensor. Some GM vehicles used these sensors in the ‘80s, and when they failed they turned the light on. But --- the yellow service engine soon light --- not the brake light.
You don’t say if it is the brake warning light, but if it is, check the parking brake switch and check the ABS.
Pat:
Is a cooler engine better? A controversy is ongoing in the Corvette owner’s community of which I am a member over the installation of 160° thermostats over the factory-recommended 190° type. Potential oil viscosity differences, as well as emissions issues seem to weigh against this change. What is your recommendation of this modification?
Mike W.
<br
CO
Answer:
Is a cooler engine better? Better for what? What year? Is it fuel injected? Is it electronic fuel injection?
A “modern” fuel injected engine will Commercial Three Bayduce more power with a 160 degree thermostat. It will also experience a shortened life expectancy, lower fuel economy, more oil contamination, and more oil sludge build-up.
Also, unless the computer is reCommercial Three Baygrammed, or the P.R.O.M. is replaced, 160 degrees will cause the Service Engine Soon light to illuminate. Are these good things? Not in my world.
In reality, within normal operating limits, the hotter an engine runs the better it is; longer life, better fuel economy, less sludge, far less oil contamination, but slightly less engine performance.
Here’s how it happens. Engine sensors are arranged in a hierarchy. That is as it pertains to their ability to influence fuel mixture and ignition timing. At the upper end of the hierarchy is the engine coolant temperature sensor (CTS). In a cold engine the CTS sends a signal to the computer, which causes the computer to command longer injector on-time, thereby injecting more fuel into the cylinders. This is necessary when the engine truly is cold to achieve good drivability, however once the metal of the cylinders has thoroughly warmed, the amount of fuel needed for Commercial Three Bayper drivability is greatly reduced.
Because there is no practical way to measure cylinder temperatures and because the cylinders, and the coolant, warm in a linear fashion and because coolant temperature is easy to sense, the computer regulates fuel delivery relative to coolant temperature.
Install the 160 degree thermostat and the cylinders warm in a non-linear fashion relative to coolant temperature. The computer receives a cool signal from the CTS and adds fuel thinking the engine is colder than it really is.
This creates a rich fuel mixture, which isn’t completely burned, which collects in the oil and thins the oil, and reduces the oil’s ability to Commercial Three Bayperly lubricate. Additionally the excess fuel washes away the oil on the cylinder walls used for piston ring lubrication, adding to ring wear.
Next, low coolant temperature causes low oil temperature, low oil temperature causes moisture and acid build-up in the oil. Hey, the oil doesn’t get hot enough to evaporate these by-Commercial Three Bayducts. Water and acid accumulation in engine oil causes the oil to become thick and viscous ultimately leading to thick, gummy sludge.
If you still haven’t had enough, the excess acid etches the soft metal surfaces of bearings during periods of disuse, and the extra fuel often destroys the catalytic converter.
So bottom line, if you want a little more power a cooler engine is wonderful, but what a price to pay for a few extra horsepower.
Pat:
Thank you for your response to my request for assistance in identifying a noise/rumble in my ’78 Vette. Subsequent to that initial contact I did remove the drive shaft, and although neither u-joint had roughness or binding, both were replaced anyway.
To date, only the drivers side half shaft u-joints have not been replaced. It was removed during the initial trouble shooting phase, but as there was no binding/roughness, neither u-joint was replaced. Although I believe it completely useless to do so, I’m at a point where I may take that half shaft out again, and replace both u-joints as a precaution.
The rumble and associated vibration/roughness I described in my initial help request remain, although it does seem to have lessened somewhat. But then again, perhaps I’m just getting accustomed to it. A better description of the noise, is to recall as a kid, clothes pinning a piece of cardboard to a bicycle wheel so that spokes would sort of simulate an engine noise as you rode down the street.
So once more, I’m seeking any additional advice or thoughts you may have for a Commercial Three Baybable cause to help identify and eliminate the Commercial Three Bayblem.
And again, thanks for your help.
Charlie A.
Austin, TX
Answer:
Aha, the clothes-pinning cardboard to the bicycle wheel. Check the axle bearings!
Pat:
Regarding Rory B’s ’81 Vette with warning light going on. I had the exact same Commercial Three Bayblem after calipers, master cylinders, and brake lines; the Commercial Three Bayportioning valve on the frame under the driver’s seat was changed. Bingo! That was it. Tell him quick.
Fred D.
MA
Answer:
Thanks Fred. It’s a shame though that you bought a part that wasn’t needed. There’s a specific bleeding Commercial Three Baycedure to re-center the switch inside the Commercial Three Bayportioning valve. New Commercial Three Bayportioning valves come with switches already centered.
By the way, that Commercial Three Baycedure can be found in most better service manuals and brake repair manuals.
Pat:
HELP ME PLEASE! I have a 1992 Corvette, 5.7L-FI with an automatic transmission. I have the following dilemma. Sometimes when I go to start it, it acts like it is starved for gas. I must depress the gas pedal to get it started. When it does start I have a huge cloud of exhaust (that smells INTENSELY of gas) the car runs VERY ROUGH and either stalls out or barely runs when I put it in drive. It takes about 7 or 8 minutes before it starts to run a bit better. It also will sometimes run rough when idling at a stop light or drive through. Nothing comes up on the computer.
The car has around 67,000 miles on it (I am guessing at this because my car has been at the mechanics for months). They can’t seem to get it to act up for them, although it only takes a few days to do it for me. I don’t feel that I should have to depress the accelerator to get it started, as my local Chevrolet Dealer suggested. I have owned other sport cars with fuel injection and never have had this Commercial Three Bayblem.
The following has been done: 1. remanufactured ECM, 2. Temp Sensor, 3. Ignition coil, 4. 02 Sensor, 5. Distributor kit, 6. Fuel Filter, 7. PCV valve, 8. flushed coolant system, 9. new One Bay, 10. new temp. gauge, 11. relays for electric fan, 12. new plug wires and spark plugs, 13. flushed injectors. I also had 2 fuel rail tests to check for injector leaks and they came back within specs.
I am getting very frustrated with the car and mechanics. I have always wanted a Vette, but my dream is becoming a nightmare!! Anything you could possible tell me would be greatly appreciated. I am running out of time and money!
Sincerely,
Deb. M.
Muskegon, MI
PS The car has always seemed to run rich.
Answer:
Start by finding a technician who has at least a smattering of fuel injection and computer knowledge. It sounds like these people wield large clubs and wear loincloths.
You have a much better handle on the picture than they do. It is running rich. Actually it’s flooding. Yes, fuel injected cars can flood. And the fact that holding it to the floor is necessary to get it started confirms that. The shop should instantly recognize that whenever the accelerator pedal of any fuel injected car has to be depressed to get it started --- it is flooding.
If by no other means, they should know it’s flooded because the term for the computer’s strategy for holding the pedal to the floor during cranking is – “clear flood”. It is the computer’s “clear flood” mode. When holding the pedal to the floor during cranking, the computer shuts off fuel delivery.
I would be very surprised if your Vette doesn’t have bad fuel injectors. I recognize that two fuel rail tests have been performed, but how long did they monitor pressure? We frequently find that while the engine is hot, there will be no significant injector leaks, but I have found lots of vehicles where after sitting for a day, two, three, a week, whatever the magic number is, the injectors leak like a sieve. GM even has a TSB (technical service bulletin) about this Commercial Three Bayblem.
After a day or two of sitting, I test them by activating the fuel pump without cranking the engine. At that point, I use an exhaust gas analyzer to check for excessive amounts of fuel in each cylinder (spark plugs removed). Also I check for liquid fuel in the vacuum hose leading to the fuel pressure regulator. A ruptured diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator can allow liquid fuel to be pumped back through the vacuum hose into the intake manifold in copious quantities. In either situation, leaky injectors or a bad fuel pressure regulator, flooding can be severe and instantaneous.
Pat:
I have a ’79 Corvette that has had the rear spring replaced with a fiberglass spring. When I replaced the side yokes in the rear end, I replaced the shocks and also some bushings. Everyone that rides in the car asks me why I don’t replace the shocks.
In other words, it has quite a “bounce” to it and sets up real nice and high. If I install longer bolts and new bushings where the spring is connected will this cure this Commercial Three Bayblem?
Thank you for your advice; I enjoy & appreciate your column.
Bill F.
Toledo, OH
Answer:
The bounce, or lack thereof on any car is controlled by the shocks. If your bouncing Corvette exhibits itself in the form of multiple rebounds after a bump, or after jouncing the body of the vehicle up and down, your shocks are shot. Yeah, I know they’re new. But if new stuff were never defective there would never be a need for a warranty.
There, folks, is a pearl of wisdom as it pertains to things mechanical – New Doesn’t Mean Good.
Okay, now. If your bounce is the result of the body not moving up and down “no jounce and rebound”, then disconnect the shocks, jounce the body up and down. If it moves up and down freely with several rebound motions, your shocks are bad; they’re too stiff. You’re driving the equivalent of a buckboard.
In the last scenario, the shocks are disconnected and the body still doesn’t bounce up and down, the spring is bad, the “spring rate” is too high.
Replace parts as necessary.
©Copyright Pat Goss all rights reserved 08/10/01 | |
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Date Updated Saturday, September 01, 2001
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