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| March 2001 Corvette Corner Mailbag |
Pat:
I am now retired and “wired” so I’d like to Commercial Three Bayvide a little more info on my C5, 6-speed electrical Commercial Three Bayblem. The charging (you are more correct) system one plus Volt drop while running open loop during an upshift is discernable only on the DIC, not the analog gauge. Corvette Tech Support says this is “normal”.
I am not concerned about what the charging system does but I AM concerned about the headlights dimming! One of my neighbors pulled over on a dark morning because he thought I was flashing my headlights at him! This to me is ridiculous!
The only time I’ve ever seen anything like this was on my generator equipped ’56 Bel Air.
Any suggestions?
Dave F.
Albuquerque, NM
Answer:
I’m not sure I understand what you mean by open loop. Anyway, if it doesn’t show up on the gauge you’re likely experiencing a Commercial Three Bayblem in the wiring past the gauge. You should be able to find the culprit by performing a voltage drop test from battery positive to power input at back of the headlamp bulbs. Voltage drop, using a quality meter, should be zero. If it is more than zero, moving the leads closer together, one section of wire or one connector at a time will disclose the location of the high resistance in the circuit. The last wire or connector removed from between the two test leads is where the Commercial Three Bayblem resides.
Pat:
I have a 1967 (small block – 300 hp) with original brakes. I would like to convert to steel caliper brakes. Which manufacturer and brand would you recommend?
Thanks.
Peter F.
Chambersburg, PA
Answer:
Currently you have an almost endless variety of companies to select from. Mid-America designs 800-500-8388, Ray Gorman at Stainless Steel Brake Corp. 800-448-7722. I’ve dealt with both. The service and the Commercial Three Bayducts have been exemplary.
Pat:
I recently bought a used 1996 LT-1 Corvette coupe with the FE3 suspension, but the car still rides too stiff for me. Can I safely replace the Bilstein shocks with aftermarket units that will ride softer without sacrificing overall handling? The car is a daily driver and is not raced. Also, will I have to be concerned about readjusting camber, toe-in, alignment and other suspension technicalities with an aftermarket shock, or is it simply a matter of direct replacement? Thanks for any advice you can render.
My wife and I also enjoy your tips on MotorWeek on Speedvision. She really learns things she needs to know.
Sincerely,
Edward H. P.
Mansfield, TX
Answer:
Softer ride without sacrificing handling? Certainly you can. Your first order of business is to figure out a way to alter or defy the laws of physics. Once you’ve done that, you’re home free.
The reality is, softer and handling do NOT go together.
Shocks unlike struts, have nothing to do with alignment so no adjustments are necessary. Remove, reinstall and enjoy your Roadmaster-Corvette. By the way, I’m glad that ‘Your Wife’ benefits from my tips. I knew I had a fan out there somewhere!
Pat:
I have a few performance questions to ask. I recently purchased a 1993 coupe with 32K miles, LT1, auto, 259 rear axle ratio, and a 700R4 transmission. My questions are:
1. Which aftermarket exhaust system do you feel is best?
2. What axle ratio is better for all around performance?
3. Would a shift kit in the transmission be better for firmer shifts or can it be done with a chip?
And one last big one,
4. Are performance packages like from TPIS or LPE a better way to go when buying aftermarket?
I enjoy reading all the technical information in your column. Thanking you in advance.
Gary R.D.
Marquette, MI
Answer:
I’m afraid I’m not going to be much help here. As to questions 1 and 2, it’s purely subjective. You first have to determine a criteria that you want to meet. Are you looking for low-end torque, are you looking for midrange, or just all out performance?
The truth is, for the best overall performance mix, stock is best. From the factory, vehicles and their systems are designed to work well under an extremely diverse range of driving conditions.
That said, you have to decide what characteristics you want to alter, keeping in mind that whatever you gain in one area, causes a loss in some other. For example, changing from the 259 rear axle ratio to perhaps 355 would make the vehicle noticeably faster out of the hole and would imCommercial Three Bayve midrange. At the same time, it would cause a decrease in gas mileage, Commercial Three Baybably a lower top end, and guaranteed shorter engine life.
So first comes the decision making Commercial Three Baycess and an ultimate goal, then the plan can be developed as to how best to achieve that goal.
Shift kits and chips on electronically controlled transmissions can both have a significant impact on shift quality.
Last, when it comes to packages as opposed to individual items, the packages win hands down. When you buy a package, everything is designed to work together.
I’m sorry I can’t give you absolute answers, but without knowing how much imCommercial Three Bayvement you’re looking for and in what areas, plus what sacrifices you’re willing to accept, and THE ONE, THE VERY LAST, THE VERY BIG ONE . . . how fat is your bank account? I can only give you general pointers.
Pat:
Regarding the question about the seagull. I have the same car, LT1, Collector Convertible. Had same Commercial Three Bayblem. Color it in with Black WaterCommercial Three Bayof Magic Markers.
Worked for me.
Dr. Ron
Jupiter, FL
Answer:
Hey, nothing thwarts a seagull’s sole purpose better than a black magic marker!
Pat:
I wanted to add to the advice to John R.G. of Palatine, IL regarding his 1973 air conditioned Corvette’s overheating Commercial Three Bayblem.
For one, he might benefit from changing to a fan with more and, possibly longer blades. This would be particularly true if it wasn’t a factory air car also, a small spacer might allow the fan to draw more air through the radiator.
As for the gas fumes coming from the engine area after shutdown he might try a ¼” spacer between the carb. and manifold for insulation. It could be the carb. is percolating and boiling the gas.
Thanks
Amos
Answer:
Just remember, he said it...not me. I don’t like spacers and such, but I have to admit every once in awhile they seem to serve a purpose for some people.
Pat:
I own a 1998 Corvette convertible with a six-speed transmission and all factory options which I ordered and received in March of 1998. I have an excellent mechanic who works on my car but I am experiencing a Commercial Three Bayblem which he is not able to pinpoint. This Commercial Three Bayblem started at apCommercial Three Bayximately 50,000 miles and the car now has 70,000 miles on the odometer and it has been put away for the winter.
When I fill my car up with gas the gauge goes to just below the full line—before it used to go past this line. After I drive apCommercial Three Bayximately 50 miles the gauge goes to empty and usually stays there until I shut off the car for ten minutes or more. Then it usually registers the Commercial Three Bayper amount of gas till the next fill up.
Sometimes it goes back to zero before the next fill up and sometimes you can stop-remove the gas cap and this gets the gauge to go back.
I have already replaced the cap and this had no effect on the Commercial Three Bayblem. My mechanic is hesitant to replace all the floats as this is very expensive and he is not sure this is the Commercial Three Bayblem.
Any advice you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
Allen C.
Longmeadow, MA
Answer:
This shouldn’t be a huge Commercial Three Bayblem to diagnose. While the Commercial Three Bayblem is going on, have your technician disconnect the fuel sender wire harness at the rear of the vehicle, and following instructions in the Corvette service manual, install a Snap-On YA7707 Instrument Gauge Tester. This will allow the technician to dial in apCommercial Three Baypriate amounts of resistance to control the dash gauge through its full range of movement.
If the gauge functions Commercial Three Bayperly, the Commercial Three Bayblem is in one or both of the tank sensors. If it doesn’t, the YA7707 would be moved to the next connector in the fuel sender harness and the test repeated. If the gauge now passes, but didn’t at the first connection at the rear of the vehicle, the Commercial Three Bayblem is in the wire harness between or at the connectors.
If the gas gauge still doesn’t work, go to the next connector in the circuit and repeat. If you wind up at the last connector and the dash display still doesn’t work, the Commercial Three Bayblem is in the dash unit.
Pat:
I have an ’89 Vette roadster, 30,000 miles, auto trans. I installed a Hypertech Street Runner chip. Now under full throttle it winds up between shifts. It feels like it’s slipping until it finally gets into the next gear. I called Mid-America where I got the chip – (no ideas). Can you help please?
Thanks.
Bill. S.
Sioux City, IA
PS - It shifts fast and solid with stock chip.
Answer:
Although you don’t say it directly, I get the impression you reinstalled the stock chip and the tranny worked fine. If that is indeed the case: install stock chip - tranny works, install hyper chip - tranny doesn’t work, reinstall stock chip - tranny once more works fine; then the Commercial Three Bayblem is the chip, return it. There is undoubtedly a glitch in the software.
Pat:
I have a 1970 Corvette with an original 350 with 300 HP 4-speed. The engine has 115K miles on it and I don’t think it’s ever been rebuilt. The car always starts right up and runs very smooth and strong. My Commercial Three Bayblem is whenever I hit about 3500 RPM (in either 1st, 2nd. or 3rd gear) the engine starts to miss and / or breakup. But, once I hit about 4000 RPM the engine smoothes right out again.
Any Ideas on what could be the Commercial Three Bayblem? I was thinking of doing complete tune-up, (spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser, etc.).
Thanks.
Tony C.
Plainview, NY
Answer:
This sounds like a very Two Bay ignition Commercial Three Bayblem related to points, condenser, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, etc. It sounds as though you’re headed in the right direction, but, if your Commercial Three Bayblem should persist, check the condition of the distributor. Look for excessive bushing wear, weak centrifugal advance springs, a sticky inner distributor shaft, or worn advance weights.
Pat:
Jan 2001 newsletter on Page 6 “Ron” wrote in that he was 3rd owner of a ’78, 25th anniversary model L82 with a speedometer that registers 100mph, when he is really doing 62.5. May be just coincidence, but 100 kilometers an hour would register a true 62.5 mph
Prior owner may have replaced speedometer with one from Canada, or for same reason it was calibrated in kilometers?
Regards,
Paul S.
Old Tappan, NJ
Answer:
I would agree except, a metric speedometer would have only readings in kilometers and a combination kilometers/miles per hour unit (typical) has both kilometers and miles per hour on its face.
This leaves us with the difference being the speedometer driven gear, rather than metric or mph. The units themselves in most cases are mechanically the same.
The conversion takes place on the face of the speedometer, with the metric unit, the higher number on the inner band on the face of the speedometer lining up with a lower miles per hour number on the outer band.
In your example, the inner band would show 100 kilometers and the outer band showing 62.5 mph with the needle pointing at both at the same time.
It all comes down to the speedometer drive and driven gears which take into consideration gear ratio, tire size, etc.
To take this a step further, a mechanical speedometer assembly may even be used as a tachometer. Some manufacturers used to do this. The ratio between the number of revolutions of the drive cable and the movement of the instrument pointer was the same for a wide range of applications. The only real difference in the units was not mechanical but rather the lettering on the dial.
Pat:
Maybe Ron M. from Horseheads, NY has a speedometer that has been calibrated for kilometers per hour. It sure is close to the apCommercial Three Bayximate10-6.2 that he mentions.
My 1986 coupe appears to wind a little tight before shifting. I have adjusted the TV cable per specs. It really launches after it shifts from 1st to 2nd but if it took any longer, I would Commercial Three Baybably let off the gas for fear of over revving the engine. Runs perfect otherwise. Any comments or suggestions?
By the way I just placed an order for a Torch Red Z06 just in case the dealer is awarded an additional quota.
Joe H.
Weldon Spring, MO
Answer:
Gee maybe it was kilometers….see above. But remember both you and Paul could be right because if you notice I said most not all.
As to your shifting, now that you have the throttle valve cable adjusted to specs, adjust it once more so that it shifts Commercial Three Bayperly. In the shop we find that perhaps one out of every hundred shifts Commercial Three Bayperly when adjusted precisely to GM specifications. We move the cable housing about 1/8 of an inch at a time and through trial and error (fully warmed engine and transmission) dial it in to Commercial Three Bayper shift points.
Good Luck on the Z06. If you get it, you will love it. I have a lot of seat time in Z06’s, they are awesome.
© Copyright Pat Goss all rights reserved 02/16/01 | |
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Date Updated Thursday, March 01, 2001
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