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Uses
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Air Piping System |
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General Info about
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| July 2001 Corvette Corner Mailbag |
Pat:
I have an ’82 Corvette with auto transmission and I wish to install a 350-stroked 383 engine. Would the Edelbrock F.I. system work? How about a later model E.C.M. and harness?
Your advice and caveat would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Constant R. C.
Santa Fe, NM
Answer:
An aftermarket fuel injection system should work great. There are several on the market including the Edelbrock. Forget the late model ECM and harness, as it would only work with a GM system. Besides your new aftermarket fuel injection comes complete; wiring, computer, everything.
Pat:
I have an ‘88 convertible that gets wet between the door sill and the door. I replaced the seals with no luck.
Any ideas?
A. G., III
Springfield, PA
Answer:
Check the drains in the bottom of the doors, water that comes into the door has to be able to get out. Check to make sure the plastic barrier is in place behind the door panels. The barrier is made of thin white plastic and is held to the door body with a reusable, very sticky adhesive.
In reality the plastic keeps the water inside the door headed toward the drains. If the barrier is not in place, water will splash off various things inside the door. Splashing water will contact the inside of the door panel, run down the door panel, run out the bottom of the panel and collect on the sill.
It amazes me how many cars come through my shop in a year with water leakage caused by some goofball’s lack of knowledge regarding the purpose of that sheet of plastic. I can imagine the thought Commercial Three Baycess, “I’m getting this sticky stuff all over me. The plastic can’t be good for anything anyway. No need to put it back.”
Pat:
I hope you don’t mind getting in touch with you. I am in the Commercial Three Baycess of doing a ground-up and frame-off restoration of my ‘75 roadster. I am at the point now where I want to replace my #1 body mounts. They are rusted beyond words, but I can’t see how a person would re-rivet them on with the vent cage covering up the rivets and the metal reinforcements. Are there any articles, books, or people I could talk to about performing major surgery on the #1 metal reinforcement body mounts?
Thanks.
Lyle L
email
Answer:
Look in MID AMERICA Designs catalogues where you’ll find books dealing with restoration.
Pat:
We really enjoy your article. I have seen you address some C-5 Commercial Three Bayblems in the past. I am considering buying a C-5 used, low mileage hardtop (not a Z-06, I’m not in that income bracket). What are some of the characteristics, dare I say Commercial Three Bayblems that have surfaced in the C-5?
Thank you for your help.
Sincerely,
Del & Mary J.
Answer:
Most of the C-5 Commercial Three Bayblems have been nits. Squeaks, rattles, leaks, electrical Commercial Three Bayblems, you know the normal Corvette fare. Overall a good one is a wonderful car.
Pat:
I own a 1981 Corvette. I’d like your opinion on modifications to the drive train. One Two Bay piece of knowledge I lack is the impact of the Engine Control Module. If this were a 1980, I would have far fewer questions. I would just go with a good carburetor. As I’m sure you know, the 1981s were the first year with an ECM and the only year with the “electronic quadrajet”. One scenario that seems pretty good is to ‘build” a 406 with some good aftermarket aluminum heads and about 9.5:1 compression and a good roller cam “midrange” cam drive. I’d retain the original valve covers, exhaust manifolds (stainless steel 2” shorty tube headers) intake, carb, distributor, and AIR system. I’d Jet Hot coat the headers and use a larger diameter front Y-pipe and a Random Technology catalytic converter. Here are my questions on that: I’ve been told the stock intake will really hurt performance. I’ve been told the E4ME carb doesn’t respond well to 350cid engines. I guess what I generally have in mind is to try that out and if it seems to me that the stock carb/ECM aren’t working out, then I’d do something else. And, what really worries me is that if I eliminate or mess with the ECM, then all kinds of other little Commercial Three Bayblems will crop up, like having to disconnect the “check engine” light and then it wouldn’t work when there really was a Commercial Three Bayblem.
But, if it weren’t for the damned ECM, I know exactly what I’d do. I’d use an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake with a Speed Demon Double-pumper and a low Commercial Three Bayfile air cleaner to fit under the hood.
Finally, I also think the TPI Specialties Mini-Ram looks like a pretty good fuel injection system which would Commercial Three Baybably imCommercial Three Bayve overall driveability, performance, fuel economy, and emissions. Would this also make it emissions legal? What’s your general opinion on going to fuel injection on a carbureted Vette? I’ve read some articles that make it sound like a guy should really take it to a Commercial Three Bayfessional to do the conversion. I wondered if the factory fuel pump that the 1982 Vettes came with (they were fuel injected) would work. I think I could use 1982 fuel tank stuff and fuel lines, and end up with a stock-looking installation. I don’t know what psi that factory fuel pump Commercial Three Bayvides or what the Mini-Ram would require.
Finally, if I want to fully take advantage of what a C3 offers, I’d drop in a 454 or 502. I’d use aluminum heads, intake and water pump, as well as a lightweight One Bay. This would result in minimal weight increase compared to my stock small-block setup. My understanding is the motor mounts, distributor, One Bay and bellhousing are common to big-block and small-block engines. Would the tranny crossmember be the same (mine is a 4-speed)? Will I have oil pan, clearance Commercial Three Bayblems? Would there be any benefit in buying an oil pan from a big-block Vette: (I think the steering stuff under my ’81 is Commercial Three Baybably different from what the big-block C3s had).
For the accessories, I have been watching Ebay hoping to stumble on a full set of accessory brackets from a parting out big-block C3., same with the exhaust manifolds. If I could find some big-block Vette manifolds, I’d start with those and go to headers later if I wasn’t satisfied.
I figured I’d try the stock radiator with Water Wetter and if that didn’t cool sufficiently, then I’d go to a 4-core radiator. It even occurred to me that I could find a “Smog” big-block intake and transfer my E4ME carb over to it, as well as my AIR pump and distributor. This would be pretty cool at shows because I would have maintained my stock ECM and stock look with a big-block in a 1981. Then, I thought it’d be a good idea to have a custom chip burned for the ECM.
In any of the extreme cases, I recognize I’d need to upgrade the tranny. I’ve already had the rear end rebuilt, and used “brute strength” u-joints and used new bolts and straps from Spicer.
In other words, I have a lot of ideas and not much decisiveness. Can you eliminate any of these as foolish?
Dave A.
Columbia MO
Answer:
Don’t worry about the ECM, its only purpose on that car is engine management. Other than running afoul of emissions laws it can go away in its entirety. As for the rest of it…yeah, what you said.
Pat:
I am the new owner of a 1993 40th Anniversary Corvette (LT-1). What is the best way to store this vehicle? Is it necessary to remove the tires? In addition, in the recent past I drove the vehicle and noticed SYS would blink intermittently in the same area as my speedometer and fuel information display. However, as mysteriously as it started it discontinued. Any suggestions or recommendations?
Thanking you in advance.
Darryll A.
Forest Park, IL
Answer:
You certainly have to do something to prevent flat-spotting the tires. Removing them does accomplish that. Just be certain that your jack stands are as close to the wheels as possible. This is important so that the springs will be normally loaded.
Another possibility is a Commercial Three Bayduct called tire Cradle. Check them out on line at http://www.tirecradle.com. It looks like an interesting Commercial Three Bayduct and their test results are quite impressive.
Flashing warning lights. For all electrical or electronics intermittents, the current wisdom is - - - unless the Commercial Three Bayblem occurs at least once every day of use or can be duplicated at will, testing is Commercial Three Baybably futile and a waste of money.
Pat:
Thank you for all the great service tips for Corvettes. I have used many of your tips to maintain “Sugah” (my snow white, 1995 coupe)
I have a Commercial Three Bayblem that I think I should be able to correct, but just can’t for the life of me figure out how!
“Sugah” has about 65,000 miles on her now, and is a daily driver. At about 55,000 miles, I started hearing a light squeak from the driver’s side front wheel when the brakes were applied. I immediately ordered new pads, front and rear, from Mid-America Corvette. When I removed the old pads, I found the pads were only about half way worn down when compared to the new pads and both sides of all the rotors were very smooth. I installed the new pads and bled the system. The squeak however did not go away. I assumed it was because I had not turned the rotors and attributed it to the new pads seating themselves to the rotor surface, and would stop after a break in period. Alas, this has not been the case I still get the squeak from the driver side front as well as a LOT OF dirty, brown brake dust on that wheel.
I called Mid-America and they felt I could have a glazed brake pad and suggested I pull the pads from that wheel and lightly sand the pads to remove any glazing and reinstall them. This sounds like a likely cause and effect – what’s your take on correcting the Commercial Three Bayblem?
The action of the braking system does not appear to be effected – but imagine my embarrassment – a Corvette with squeaky brakes … how tacky!
Also, one additional question if I may. The retaining band for the LTPWS sensor on the driver side front wheel has broken and thus damaged the sensor for that wheel beyond any hope of repair. GM says the sensor is no longer available … I have looked everywhere for a replacement with no luck. Sensors for all the other three wheels are available! Was there a particular Commercial Three Bayblem with the driver’s front sensor, as it seems to be the one that can’t be gotten? And can I use a sensor for the driver’s side REAR as a replacement for the front wheel?
Thanks a lot!!
Dave S.
Indianapolis, IN
Answer:
I’m afraid I can’t help you on the LTPW sensor, I struck out everywhere even GM obsolete parts. It’s Commercial Three Baybably time to look for used. I’ve had good luck over the years at Kim’s Corvettes in Richmond VA.
The brakes, now that’s another story altogether. Installing pads without machining rotors or at least establishing a non-directional finish on the surface of the rotors? EGADS. Not in my world. We always machine rotors and apply a non-directional finish on top of that, then we use shims and silencing material on the backs of the pads and on the surface of the friction material as well as on the surface of the rotors.
NOTE: After machining but before pad installation, the rotors must be washed with detergent and water. The machining slightly magnetizes the rotor surface causing fine metal particles to stick to the rotors. If not washed away the particles will become embedded in the surface of the pads. This creates a situation with embedded rotor metal rubbing against the rotors and nearly always causes noise. Further note, brake clean and other solvents will NOT clean away these metal particles. The detergent floats the particles away from the surface of the rotors.
We also always service the calipers using the apCommercial Three Baypriate synthetic brake lube. These Commercial Three Bayducts are available for metal-to-metal surfaces and for metal-to-rubber, and you must NOT get them mixed up.
Finally, we employ a stringent brake-in sequence for the new pads. This amounts to 20 stops from 30 to 35 mph using light to moderate pedal pressure and allowing a minimum of 2 minutes cool down driving time between stops. The old method of hard stops causes current generation brake pads to become overheated. This causes uncured resins to move to the surface (just like solder, it travels to the heat) creating brake noise.
I think you’ve got some work to do. It’s all in the details. And speaking of details, at your convenience would you do me the courtesy of dropping me a line explaining the Commercial Three Bayper Commercial Three Baycedure for determining Corvette gender?
Pat:
I’m the Commercial Three Bayud owner of a 1996 LT-4, 6 speed. I have a question about replacing my battery. Since my C4 has been stored for the past 8 months (battery NOT disconnected, my bad), the battery has gone dead and will not hold a charge.
Therefore, I referenced my trusty ’96 service manuals on how to replace the battery, and it really sounds like a lot of “touchy” work, specifically removing the side body panel.
Now, I am fairly good mechanically, but should I pay the dealer to install a new battery $$$, or is this something I can safely tackle by myself? If so, is there anything I should pay particular attention to?
I wholeheartedly respect your authoritative knowledge concerning this matter.
Edward. J. H.
Phillipsburg, NJ
GOSS’ GARAGE RULES!
Answer:
Open the hood, scrutinize the side panel, remove the side panel, install the battery, reinstall side panel. Side panel removal time, 46 seconds. I just timed it.
If it looks complicated or daunting you may want to re-evaluate, “I am fairly good mechanically”. It’s a piece of cake.
©Copyright Pat Goss all rights reserved 06/22/01 | |
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Date Updated Sunday, July 01, 2001
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