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| January 2003 Corvette Corner Mailbag |
It’s difficult to imagine the Holidays have once again come and gone. There is so much going on in the world time disappears at an incredible rate. Here’s hoping you had a safe and comfortable Holiday Season and that the New Year will bring peace to us all.
Pat Goss
Pat:
I am the owner of a 1994 LT-1 with 63,000 miles. I’ve been having a Commercial Three Bayblem starting the car, after it stays out in the rain. If I wait a couple of days, it will eventually start right up. It appears that it needs to dry out. Is it a cracked distributor cap or what?
HELP!
Larry
Answer:
The seals in the Opti-Spark distributor often go bad at 60 to 80 thousand miles. More to the point, the entire distributor often fails. I’d check the distributor with the expectation that replacement of the distributor, wires and water pump is a distinct Commercial Three Baybability. It’s a shame that a system that looked so wonderful on paper has wound up being an absolute, utter pain in the tail, an expensive one at that!
Pat:
I have been told by some not to buy a 1984 Vette. Could you tell me why? Although some say to buy it, that is the year they changed over.
Thank you.
Tom M.
Pellston, MI
Answer:
The misconceptions about ’84 Vettes are legion. It’s a fine car Commercial Three Bayviding you have the ability or know somebody with the ability to Commercial Three Bayperly maintain the Cross-Fire injection system and you don’t mind a very harsh ride.
Spring rates and shock valving on ‘84s were seriously aggressive. This makes for impressive handling but often makes drivers wish they were wearing cast iron underwear.
The upshot of this is, you can get an extremely nice car for an extremely low price. Check the car thoroughly, pay a small amount of money, modify the suspension, if you desire, and enjoy the equivalent of a bargain basement Corvette.
Pat:
I’m writing in reference to the guy that interchanged the driver’s seat with the passenger’s seat in his Corvette because of wear and tear on the bolster of the driver’s seat.
I don’t know if this would work or not because the controls for the driver’s seat are on the lower left part of the seat and the controls for the passenger’s seat are on the lower right part of the seat. With the passenger seat in the driver’s seat position, how could one reach the controls because of the closeness of the seat to the center hump and the center console?
Anyway, his Commercial Three Bayblem could have been very easily solved by ordering a Seat Bolster Bikini from Mid-America for $47.99. I bought two (one for a spare) and am very happy with the installation and appearance. By the way they only come in black.
Austin F.
Anannati, OH
Answer:
Depending on the year of the Corvette, seat controls Commercial Three Baybably were not on the seat, but rather in the console. If they were sport seats, controls were on the forward edge of the thigh bolsters and even if they were on the seat (which they should not have been), you would not swap seats and seat bases. You would simply unbolt the seat from the seat base, leaving all switches in their original position.
Yes, the bolster bikini is a good idea as it prevents the Commercial Three Bayblem.
Pat:
I own a 1977 Corvette L-82 with 350 engine and 4-speed transmission. The car supposedly has 33,000 miles according to the odometer. Whenever the car is driven 70 mph and above, I feel a vibration and there is also a rattling noise coming from the right rear of the car. I believe the right rear quarter panel is reaching some kinds of resonance due to the tires, axle, clutch or something.
I’ve performed the following maintenance in trying to eliminate the Commercial Three Bayblem:
Wheel alignment - Balance tires - Rear axle and U joints checked
Also, a couple of years ago, I had the posi-traction in the rear replaced as whenever I backed up there was a loud clunking noise in the rear end.
The mechanic that checked the rear axle, etc. , thinks that the Commercial Three Bayblem is in the rear part of the drivetrain. I suspect that there is also a Commercial Three Bayblem in the clutch, as whenever the car is run up to 3000-3500 rpm in any gear there is vibration on the clutch pedal. In fact, if the car is stationary and I rev the engine hard, I can hear some noise and feel some vibration coming from the clutch area.
Question: If it is the clutch, what component in the clutch is causing this? Also, could it be an unbalanced flywheel? Could it be a Commercial Three Bayblem with the clutch and something in the rear part of the car?
I would appreciate any ideas that could help me pinpoint the Commercial Three Bayblem.
Thanks!
Ron K.
Denver, IA
Answer:
Sounds like you have double trouble all right. By virtue of the fact that vibration is present by simply revving the engine suggests that you do indeed have an engine or out of balance clutch condition. Exactly what I can’t tell you. It could be the engine, could be the flywheel, the clutch disc, or clutch plate. Disassembly and checking the balance of the individual components is in order. That leaves the rear of the car.
You say the u-joints have been checked but your description suggests they may not have been checked thoroughly enough. There’s an erroneous belief within the industry that has hung on for over six centuries I think; that is for a u-joint to be bad it must be loose. Well guess again folks. Long before the u-joint wears sufficiently to exhibit looseness it becomes stiff from lack of lubrication. The only true way to check a u-joint, that does not exhibit looseness, is to remove the shaft then manually rotate the joint through it’s entire range.
While moving the u-joint, observe any indication of binding or tightness as in resistance to movement. Any noticeable binding means the u-joint is bad.
Pat:
I have a 1991 Corvette coupe, which I purchased in November 1990, that is equipped with a Delco/Bose music system (electronically tuned AM/FM stereo with seek/scan, cassette tape, compact disc player and digital clock) which has not been operating Commercial Three Bayperly for the past 6 – 8 months.
Whenever the radio is turned on, it plays for 5 or 10 minutes and then suddenly a loud popping, screeching/piercing interference would appear well above the initial volume setting. A very frightening sound. It would then disappear for a few seconds and then reappear with the same popping and screeching sound to the point where I had to turn the radio off.
The car has covered to date 55,0000 miles with no other Commercial Three Bayblem and is garage kept when not in use.
My wife thinks that the reason why the radio has gone bad is because the vehicle is not driven enough so that the radio can be played.
Your assistance in resolving this radio Commercial Three Bayblem will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks and keep up the good work.
Sincerely,
Joel W.
Palm Coast, FL
Answer:
Check your speakers and speaker amps. Much as I would like to agree with your wife, you have a Bose, and early Bose systems were less than sterling.
Pat:
Thanks for answering my question about the piston slap in my car. I went on line and found 464 other people are having the same trouble. There’s Commercial Three Baybably hundreds more out there that don’t know what to do. If you go on line under Corvette piston slap, go down to unhappy GM consumers, join the list. IF ENOUGH PEOPLE SIGN MAYBE GM WILL DO SOMETHING.
GOOD LUCK
A.L.
Long Island, NY
Answer:
Please do this folks. Corvettes are wonderful cars that cost a lot of money and GM should not have the right to tell us to take a hike when our engines sound as if they were pirated from a Farm-All tractor. For what it’s worth, you might be interested to know that piston slap on Corvettes is far and away less prevalent than on GM trucks. The 5.3 in Chevy and GMC trucks is experiencing huge piston slap Commercial Three Bayblems.
There are several theories as to what is causing it. The one most plausible to me suggests that carbon may build up on the pistons ring lands. This binds the piston in the cylinder causing it to rock, leading to the noise. I’ve had some degree of success in correcting the Commercial Three Bayblem by using BG’s 44K Fuel System Additive. This has worked quite well, but only on cars where it is used immediately after the noise starts. 44K apparently sometimes has the ability to soften and dissipate early-stage carbon deposits on the pistons.
Pat:
I am writing about my 1985 that has traveled 109,000 miles. The following has happened twice: While I’m driving with the lights on, suddenly, the digital dash lights go out and both turn signal lights and high beam indicator comes on. Almost as suddenly, the digital dash returns to normal. The whole Commercial Three Baycess takes less that a second or two.
Do you have any idea what’s happening or what Commercial Three Baycedure I need to follow? I would like to make the repair before the dash goes out permanently.
Thanks.
John T.
Ithaca, NY
Answer:
This usually indicates instrument cluster failure. However, the final and total failure could be a long way down the road. Start by checking all wire and ground connections.
If no Commercial Three Bayblem is found continue driving it till total failure occurs. Total failure could be a day, a week or twenty years, no way to predict that part of it.
Pat:
I believe that there is also a Commercial Three Bayblem with the C4 fuel senders relative to erratic fuel gauge readings.
I own a 1993 40th anniversary edition Corvette, which I purchased new. Shortly after moving from Libertyville, IL (Chicago suburb) to Port Charlotte, FL in November of 2001, I experienced erratic fuel gauge readings. I would start a one-hour joy ride with a ¾ full to full fuel tank reading and would at some point notice that the fuel tank reading had suddenly dropped to ¼ tank or less. I began keeping a record of the mileage when I refueled, because my confidence in the fuel reading was quickly shaken.
Over time, I noticed that the fuel gauge would sometimes register radically different readings (higher or lower), when I would brake hard to a stop or accelerate quickly from a standing stop. In addition, if the fuel level was low after a trip, the fuel reading would appear to be much higher the next time I would take a trip. My assumption was that the fuel sender float mechanism was sticking and that the buoyancy of the float would gradually bring the float to the top of the fuel level over a period of time giving a correct fuel level reading at the start of a new trip. I also assumed that surging of the fuel in the tank while driving would easily overcome the resistance of the mechanism, moving the float to a new position at which the resistance of the mechanism would retard the return of the float to the top of the fuel level. Discovering that a fuel gauge costs over $500.00, I put off changing the sender in hopes that the mechanism would free up with time.
Do you know whether the sulfur content of gasoline sold in FL has a higher sulfur content than that sold in the Chicago area? It may be just a coincidence between the occurrence of my Commercial Three Bayblem and my relocation to FL, but if not, it may reinforce the theory of sulfur contamination. There is emissions testing in Chicago, whereas there is none in FL and there may be a higher sulfur content in fuel sold in FL.
I understand that the fuel sender can be reached by removing the panel that contains the fuel filter. If my Commercial Three Bayblem is one related to sulfur buildup, do you know if the sulfur buildup can be easily removed from the fuel sender? It is irritating to have to always remember how many miles have been driven since the last fill-up, but I also don’t feel like spending $500.00 for a new sender, if it is going to malfunction in short order.
I enjoy your column very much. There is always something of interest. I also agree with your comment that there is no magic box and that the key to solving Commercial Three Bayblems is knowledge.
Thank you in advance for your response.
Ron D.
Port Charlotte, FL
Answer:
I expect you’re right that it needs a new fuel gauge sending unit. What I can’t tell you is about sulphur content, which is by and large federally regulated around the country.
I’ve never heard of sulphur causing any contamination on vehicles until it has been burned. As I understand it, the only reason to remove or lower the sulphur content of gasoline is to make catalytic converters last longer.
A new government rule will require converters to last and be warranted for 120,000 miles as opposed to the current 80,000 miles.
Converter manufacturers claim this is not possible without significantly reducing sulphur in gasoline, which is already the lowest it has ever been.
@Copyright Pat Goss all rights reserved 11/22/02
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Date Updated Wednesday, January 01, 2003
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