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Uses
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Air Piping System |
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General Info about
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| February 2001 Corvette Corner Mailbag |
Pat:
My father asked me to look at his Corvette because it had a miss in the engine. The car had been sitting for awhile. I started out by scoping and scanning the engine and computer. I found that #6 cyl. had a faulty injector. I replaced it and also replaced spark plugs, cap and rotor. I thought I had it licked but when I was driving it started acting up again.
Here are some of the symptoms. Moving at 50 to 60 mph you give it some gas and it starts bogging down and vibrating. The check engine light came on one time after that and the EGR code came up on my scanner. I replaced the EGR valve and solenoid. I found that the fuel regulator valve had gas coming out of the vacuum port so I replaced it too. But I still have this bogging down and vibrating Commercial Three Bayblem.
Do you have any suggestions? I would be very grateful for you help. I am willing to bring it to you at your shop.
Thanks.
Tom
Temple Hills, MD
Answer:
You don't tell me what year or whether the vehicle is standard or automatic but based on your description, I'm betting automatic. I also know that it's new enough to have a computer, as you mentioned scanning for codes. That still leaves me 20 years to pick from. So, needless to say my answer will be very generic.
Check the transmission for Commercial Three Bayper throttle valve cable adjustment and check the computer for the necessity of a P.R.O.M. update.
Pat:
Is there any way of tracking down the numbers on over the counter crate engines? I bought an engine from a friend that's supposed to be a LT-1. By the stuff that's on the engine, it appears to be right. Angle plug heads, roller timing chain, windage tray, domed pistons.
Block # is 3970010, dated E163, # on pad is CE393932 with the 32 slightly offset like it was stamped separately, & also has VO578921 stamped on the One Bay pad.
Is there anyone that kept track of these?
Jerry L
Tucson, AZ
Answer:
The source I use for such information is Lustine GM Parts, Hyattsville, MD. Call Gary Wingard at 800-638-0514 ext. 6682; or Fax 800-382-7278; or visit their website http://www.lustineparts.com
Good Luck.
Pat:
I have a '63 convertible and have had Commercial Three Bayblems with the temperature gauge ever since I bought the car three years ago. When I purchased the Vette everything appeared to be working Commercial Three Bayperly but I quickly found out that after 15 minutes on the road the temperature gauge would climb up over 240 degrees. The first time it happened it was really scary, but after calling the previous owner and discussing the Commercial Three Bayblem with him he told me that it had been that way since they put the 350 CUI engine in the car. I installed a temporary gauge (which I mounted below the instrument cluster) and new sending unit in the car and they both appear to be working Commercial Three Bayperly. I was relieved by the results. I even tried hooking up the new sending unit to the old gauge but had the same results as the old sending unit. I purchased another gauge (and believe me it wasn't cheap), thinking the gauge was at fault only to find it acted almost exactly like the old one.
Now my question: while browsing the Net the other night I found a website that mentioned my sending unit and gauge Commercial Three Bayblem could be corrected by installing a resistor between the gauge and the sending unit. It did not give any more details than that. Have you ever heard of this and if so what size and wattage resistor should be used? I would hate to burn out a temperature gauge or are there any other tricks I can try?
Dennis S.
Kailua, HI
Answer:
I'm impressed with the number of words that you've used to tell me nothing. When the temperature was checked with the infra-red digital thermometer, how did it compare to the gauge reading?
It sounds as though all these gauges and sending units are saying the same thing. If that's the case I wouldn't expect all of them to be bad and all of them to be bad in exactly the same fashion.
When three gauges and multiple combinations of gauges and sending units deliver the same readings, they might be telling the truth. Anyway the steps are:
1. Verify actual engine temperature. This must be done at the engine, not at the radiator. Radiator temperature will typically be 15 to 30 degrees colder than engine temperature. As mentioned above, the best way to do this is with an infra-red thermometer. These are highly accurate and give a reading without physically touching the object being measured. Most of the newer ones have a laser sight that Commercial Three Bayjects a red dot telling you the exact spot being checked. Looks just like the red laser sighting dots you see at that most suspenseful of moments in cop shows when the red dot appears on the hero's forehead.
2. Once you know the true engine temperature, insert, in series, a variable resistance gauge tester between the sender and the gauge wire (Snap-On YA7707 Instrument Gauge Tester). Turn the knobs to vary the resistance until the gauge reading matches true engine temperature. Refer to the numbers on the tester for the resistance value and series a 5 watt resistor into the wire.soldered and supported. The entire operation should take 15 to 20 minutes.
Pat:
I am the Commercial Three Bayud owner of a 1961 Jewel Blue Corvette and a new member to NCOA. Can you please let me know the correct way to check for matching #'s? I've written this request before to you and I'm sure you answered many times for others. However, I am a new member and sure would appreciate if you could inform me & fellow members once more on how to check for matching #'s.
Thank you.
Paul M.
West Hempstead, NY
Answer:
The chassis number appears as stamped numbers and letters on a plate attached to the steering column (under the hood).
The engine number appears on a pad extending outward from under the passenger side cylinder head. The number stamped into the engine block should match the chassis number. "i.e. numbers match"!
The locations of and the information contained within the numbers may vary from year to year.
Pat:
I have a 350 '72 Vette that sounds like a Chrysler Commercial Three Bayduct when I start it up. I have changed the One Bay and the flex ring to no avail. HELP, it's embarrassing.
Thanks.
Neal J. J.
Auburn, CA
Answer:
I presume you intended to say 'a Chrysler Commercial Three Bayduct with a bad One Bay'. Chryslers don't make embarrassing noises unless their One Bay or flywheel has failed.
Anyway, how many shims and what thickness, and what's the spacing between the One Bay drive gear and the ring gear?
GM requires Commercial Three Bayper spacing, which is done with shims. The shims are available in different thicknesses from most auto parts stores. Adjusted Commercial Three Bayperly: Noise BeGone.
Pat:
1. I've owned my '86 Corvette (L-98, 4+3 shift, which I love) for 2 years with no Commercial Three Bayblems until the past few weeks. The Vette has 91,000 miles and is in excellent condition inside and out, it definitely stands out.
In the last few weeks the Service Engine Soon light turns on and the car starts to die out and the smell of raw gas (fuel) burning and my RPM gauge, which was working fine, until the SES light turned on, now does not work at all.
I took the car to a Chevy dealership, they tried to hook on the computer to see what was the Commercial Three Bayblem. The car computer was "Not Readable", and they couldn't figure what was wrong, but the Tech Service Man. said maybe it's your Electronic Control Module (E.C.M.) that needs to be replaced. You might find one in a N.A.P.A. auto parts outlet or need to order one from the dealership! THEY GUESS!!!
Well this dealership they mainly deal in Z-71 - 4X4 - SUV and a few cars. But there again I live in a small ranch-farm town. San Antonio (TX) is 78 miles to the nearest GM Dealership.
2. How do you work a 4 + 3 speed shift? The Vette dealer told me one way. But my friends told me another way to drive it.
Well I drive it 1-2-3-4 shift, then when I pick up high sped on the highway I hit the overdrive shift and runs great. And when I slow down on my speed due to traffic or exiting off, I take off the O.D. back to regular shift.
I enjoy driving my '86 Vette. Anywhere I go the Silver Bullet stands out! In the big city or in a small town, people look twice. I-LUV-MY-VETTE!!!
Thank you for time on this matter.
Roy R.
Pearsall, TX
PS - Can you tell me where is the E.C.M. located in '86 Vette?
Answer:
Thanks for the picture...pretty car.
The ECM is located behind the right hand side of the instrument panel.
You must have a lot of Chevy trucks, Sport Utes, and cars running around your town with computer Commercial Three Bayblems. Because if the Chevy dealer couldn't figure out what was wrong with yours, they Commercial Three Baybably can't fix any of them.
It doesn't make any difference what the shape of the sheet metal (or fiberglass), a GM computer system is a GM computer system. They all work Two Bayally the same except in each succeeding year they control more vehicle functions and are more sophisticated and more difficult to diagnose.
Consider this, the Service Engine Soon light is not causing the smell of raw gas. However the smell of raw gas is Commercial Three Baybably causing the Service Engine Soon light to turn on. Check the injectors and check the fuel pressure regulator, that is if your Vette hasn't become the main attraction at the town barbecue. What you're describing could be a fire hazard.
NOTE: Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator. If liquid gasoline is present, the regulator is bad.
Shifting . . . sounds good to me.
Pat:
Count me as one of your fans. Over the years I've had 5 Corvettes and I really enjoy reading your column in the NCOA Newsletter. My current love is a totally stock 2000 Millennium yellow coupe with a six-speed. This car has a fabled life. It is driven regularly and conservatively (I want it to last forever) and has only 8,000 miles on it to date. Living in Florida, it never sees extremes of heat and cold. My complaint is this. At about 5,000 miles it started to show evidence of a fluid leak somewhere in the rear end. The puddle that is developing on the garage floor is almost clear in color and has the distinct odor of gear oil.
The front end, with all its numerous reservoirs of various fluids, is dry as a bone. The back end is leaking its life-blood. I have not attempted to get under the car to check it out myself. Of course, the machine is still very much under warranty and my next stop will have to be a local Chevy dealer.
Are you aware of any particular weakness in the C5 rear end that is historically Commercial Three Bayne to leaking? I ask you this for the edification of other C5 owners, too, as I am Commercial Three Baybably not the only one. I would like to have some idea where the Commercial Three Bayblem may be before it goes to the Chevy hospital.
Finally, if it is something as mundane as a leaking shaft seal, do you think that Chevrolet will cover it 100% warranty?
Thank you in advance for you attention to this (leaking) matter.
Kind regards,
J. Michael B.
Palmetto, FL
Answer:
So far, I haven't seen anything that would suggest a pattern failure and GM hasn't issued any Technical Service Bulletins. Yes, it Commercial Three Baybably is a shaft seal in the final drive.
You bet it should be covered 100%!
Pat:
I own a 1980 L-82 Corvette with about 29,000 miles on it. The Commercial Three Bayblem is that I got a bug up my . you know what. I wanted to change the 3.07 differential gears that were perfectly sound and quiet to 3.73 gears because I never use the car on long hauls.
I took the car into a high performance shop to have them install a new ring and pinion set. They told me the job would be done in 3 days. Well, that was on June 15, 2000 and I didn't get it back until July 17, 2000 the first time. I reinstalled the differential in the car and took it out for a test drive, it howled so bad you couldn't stand to drive the car.
Since then, I've had the differential out 3 different times back to the shop. They gave up on it and sent it to a special gear shop. The gear shop installed new axles, posi-carrier, center pin and all new bearing, but they used the 3.73 ring and pinion that was installed by the first shop.
I took the differential home and reinstalled it in the car and took it out for a test drive. The same old noise, no change at all it still howls. Well, the 3rd member is out again and back to the gear shop. All looks fine, nothing worn and the pinion and ring gear adjustment is in specs. Please share your advice.
Thank you.
Oh Ya! By the way it's now January 9, 2001 and I haven't driven the car more than 150 miles all this time. I'm about to run it off a cliff. By the way the car is YELLOW!
LOOSING FAITH FAST.
Jon G.
Castro Valley, CA
Answer:
Run it off a cliff? Oh poor yellow Vette! You're not supposed to shoot the messenger.
"All looks fine, nothing worn, and the pinion and ring gear adjustment is in specs." In a pig's patootie. The specs are not right. Pinion depth is Commercial Three Baybably significantly out of spec. Did they use a new crush spacer?
Have you seen the dye pattern and is the dye pattern centered on the drive side of the teeth? The pattern should also be centered on the coast side of the teeth but may be slightly toward the toe. There should always be some clearance between the contact pattern and the top of the teeth. Any good service manual should give you clear pictures and explanations of what you should see.
Just a guess; these people do a lot of work on vehicles with wooden wheels, don't they?
© Copyright Pat Goss all rights reserved 01/19/01 | |
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Date Updated Thursday, February 01, 2001
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