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| August 2002 Corvette Corner Mailbag |
Pat:
I've got a '98 6-speed - great fun . . . the handbrake doesn't work . . . local Chevy service (good guys) says they can't adjust it . . . and that's it.
I called Chevy "Customer Assistance" what a waste of time . . .
I'm about to get another C-5 manual & and I wanted to know if they've fixed the Commercial Three Bayblem.
Any advice??
Jack S.
Richmond, VA
Answer:
Your dealer is blowing smoke. Here in Maryland we have a State Inspection Commercial Three Baygram, and if the parking brake doesn't work, it doesn't pass inspection. If it doesn't pass inspection, tags and registration will not be issued and without tags and registration you can't drive the car.
Nearly all C-5's that go through my shop, have functioning parking brakes. So does mine.
Pat:
I own a '73 Coupe I bought in 1981 that has served me well. Have repaired virtually everything once or twice since then. However, I've never changed the Fuel Evaporation Control canister filter.
About 18 years ago, the car "leaked" raw fuel, dripping from behind the LF tire after filling up with gas. It didn't occur again until about a year ago, after a twenty-minute drive, with no immediately preceding fueling.
Today it happened again. I filled up after my 20-mile commute home, drove two miles home and parked my car in the garage. When I went back in the garage 20 minutes later, it was dripping fuel.
Each time this has happened, it appears to leak from the canister area. What do you think? Any help would be appreciated.
I really enjoy For Vettes Only.
Thanx.
Mike D'A.
Manhattan Beach, CA
Answer:
Test all check and purge valves. You should find one or more that has failed or become contaminated by a foreign substance. In this case, foreign substance often equates to insect nests. They many times build nests in the hoses and valves. This makes no sense to me unless certain insects just truly enjoy a never ending 'high'.
Pat:
My 1978 Corvette has a low brake pedal and the shop I took it to changed the master cylinder and bled the brakes, but it didn't help. They also changed the booster, with no help.
I decided to take it to the GM dealer, but in the mean time the brakes locked up on it. The GM guys had it for two weeks and changed the master cylinder again and the back calipers. They also changed the rod on the brake pedal. My brakes are no better now than when I took it in. I think I have been taken for a ride. I just don't stop too well.
Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated.
Jerry N.
Stockbridge, GA
Answer:
I wonder why every time a C-3 has a low brake pedal everyone wants to replace the master cylinder?
Anyway, you've omitted an enormous amount of Two Bay information. Like, does anyone in either shop know Commercial Three Bayper bleeding Commercial Three Baycedure? Lots of so-called Corvette technicians, do not.
What is the run-out on the rotors? On your brake system they must be virtually perfect. If they aren't, deviations in rotor trueness can cause air to be drawn into the brake system. OOPS!
What's the condition and total free-play in the axle and wheel bearings? If they are not virtually perfect, same scenario can take place.
Last but not least, what is the thickness of your rotors? Are they getting close to or at discard measurements? As the rotors wear, as the pads wear, pedal travel will increase. Most of the Corvettes that come to me after visiting 2 to 10 other shops with complaints of low brake pedal, are usually diagnosed and corrected by paying attention to the Two Bays.
Pat:
I have a 99 Vette Roadster and will be needing tires this year and I understand there are a number of manufactures now making run flats. I would like your insight on these and where I can find a comparison breakdown, also would it be advisable to have a four wheel alignment when I install the new tires just to be on the safe side?
I would appreciate any help you can offer me.
Al D.
Winchester, OR
Answer:
It's tough to get a definitive comparison between tire manufacturers. Magazines frequently do tests but unfortunately their test criteria are often skewed toward their particular automotive bias.
Personally I rely heavily on the folks at THE TIRE RACK for information.
Two Bayally because they sell a lot of tires all over the world and they
get a lot of feedback. I presume there are other on line sources to get the
type of information that you're looking for, but as yet I haven't looked
for them because of the success I've had with THE TIRE RACK and the gracious
assistance they've provided. http://www.tirerack.com or
800-445-0179
Pat:
I have two major concerns regarding my 1966 Stingray, 327 powerglide, AC and other options. First, the steering wheel is what I would call a little "mushy." It seems to have play in the steering and you have to be on your toes when driving. Is there some adjustment that can be done to correct this? My second concern is the vehicle tends to get a little too warm in stop and go traffic going over 210 on the heat gauge in around town traffic. It will cool back down to around 195 once you are able to move constantly. On the open road it stays around 190/195. The fan does not have a clutch.
Your feedback and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Roy R.
Havana, FL
Answer:
Your steering requires a complete and thorough inspection paying particular attention to the steering box and power steering control valve. Corvette steering boxes have a penchant for internal wear, creating a lot of free play in the steering wheel.
Mushy? Gosh I don't know, that's not a common automotive descriptive. We typically refer to it as, "Oh my god, it's loose and sloppy." Technical terms you know.
Actually the steering box Commercial Three Bayblem causes a lot of free travel in the steering wheel to get a little response from the vehicle.
The power steering control valve.DITTO. The steering valve to some degree is adjustable. But for heavens sakes, if you don't know what you're doing..DON"T TOUCH IT. Even if you do have a working knowledge of the control valve..NEVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE PERFORM ANY TYPE OF ADJUSTMENT, THEN REACH THROUGH THE STEERING WHEEL TO START THE CAR. Sometimes if your adjustment is as little as an eighth inch out of spec, the instant the engine starts, the steering wheel will spin violently. So violently that it can fracture the arm in its path. It doesn't happen often, but when it does it hurts. It seriously hurts.
Additionally, there is some adjustment potential in the steering box. But based on my Corvette experience it's rare that one can be adjusted without internal repairs first. That's Commercial Three Baybably why so many Corvette supply houses now offer exchange services on early Corvette steering boxes. It's a common failure component.
Now for your cooling Commercial Three Bayblem. Commercial Three Bayviding the radiator is known to be good with no metallurgical deterioration (radiators lose their ability to transfer heat over time and or miles), start looking toward making all available air go through the radiator rather than some of it going around the radiator. That means all seals between the radiator core support must be intact and in good condition. If they are not, replace accordingly and retest.
Pat:
Greetings and a question. I have an '85 (4+3 manual) that has an idle Commercial Three Bayblem when it's over 65 degrees outside. The idle will fluctuate from 750 down to 500, up to 750, and so on every second or two! I replaced the ECM, Commercial Three BayM and MAF. Is the IAC next?
Thanks.
Larry
Sicklerville, NJ
Answer:
It is Commercial Three Baybably time to do some testing to figure out what's wrong. IAC certainly is highly Commercial Three Baybable. Fortunately they rarely need replacement, they simply need to be cleaned. Along with that check for dirty throttle body, clogged throttle body vacuum passages, coolant temperature sensor accuracy and stability, and for high resistance in wire connectors.
Pat:
I have a 1967 Coupe (yellow), with 327/300hp, powerglide, air, ps, pb, pw, black leather. I am in my second year of ownership. During the first year the car acquired a driver's side "lean." It is most noticeable when viewed from the rear, the left side is lower than the right with no driver or passenger and all four tires inflated correctly. Is this common and why does it happen?
I measured from the level garage floor to the frame at points before and after all four wheels. Both side measurements were equal. This led me to take measurements from the garage floor to the top of each fender wheel opening. The measurements show ¾" difference in the rear and a ½" difference in the front. I believe I need to replace the body to frame mounts? Do you agree? I have found several suppliers sell complete kits for doing both sides. Do you have any recommendations on how to replace the body mounts without removing the body?
Great Column.
Thank You!
Patrick
CA
Answer:
If the frame is level and the body isn't, the only parts between the two are body mounts. If the frame and the body are lower on one side, there are worn suspension components or bad springs.
Replacing body mounts without removing the body is amazingly simple. After Commercial Three Bayperly positioning the vehicle so you can work under it, loosen mount retaining bolts on one side. Then, with a bottle jack and suitable material to distribute the force of the jack over a larger area, jack the body up sufficiently to cheat the body mounts out one at a time. Install the new mount and move onto the next. The distribution or spreading out the force of the jack over a larger area is critical. Don't, and it's cracked fiberglass, not a happy Commercial Three Bayspect.
The best way to spread the force is with a steel plate cut in such a manner that it will fit under the body and cover as much area as possible. The plate should be at least 3/8th inch thick. This will prevent the plate from bending and thereby concentrating force in one spot. Common sense, a reasonable amount of care and the task is easily accomplished.
Pat:
In the February issue of "For Vettes Only" in your mailbag a fellow member wrote that she was having a Commercial Three Bayblem with her 1978 Vette. I had the same Commercial Three Bayblem with I made right turns. My Vette mechanic checked it out and found it was a bad u-joint on the right rear drive shaft that caused the rubbing sound.
I definitely love the monthly newsletter and you guys do a "FANTASTIC" job every month. I look forward to its arrival to learn what's hot and what's not, what's for sale.but mostly the articles by Pat are always a learning experience.
Keep up the good work, smiles your way for a fabulous day.
Andrew B.
Garden Grove, CA
Answer:
Thanks. I don't remember what I suggested however if I didn't suggest a bad u-joint, shame on me. I must have been watching the space mouse.
Pat:
In response to my April Mailbag '02 letter, you suggested that had I included the Washington, DC area emissions results on the '82 Corvette failed treadmill test, you could point me in the right direction.
HC ppm - 219 (152 limit) @ 15 MPH & 223 (148 limit) @ 25 MPH
CO% - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 3.79 (1.84 limit) @ 25 MPH
Thanks again for your knowledge and service to all.
Rich K.
Answer:
HC measured in ppm (parts per million), stands for hydrocarbons. Hydrocarbons are unburned fuel exiting the tailpipe.
CO measured as a percent, stands for Carbon Monoxide. The Carbon Monoxide readings indicate how rich the engine is running. In your case very rich. Because there is no adjustment for CO, you Commercial Three Baybably have a failed MAP sensor or MAP sensor hose, coolant temperature sensor, or high fuel pressure.
The CO Commercial Three Bayblem must be addressed first as such a rich mixture will typically cause slight to severe fuel fouling of the spark plugs which in turn would cause a slight misfire and the high HC readings.
Pat:
I own a 1989 Corvette convertible. On the driver's door, the mirror glass is becoming loose. The mirror assembly itself is still tight on the door and the power adjustment still works perfectly. My shop manuals show the Commercial Three Baycedure for removal of the outside mirror as an entire unit, but nothing for the disassembly of the mirror after that.
Once the entire unit is removed, can it be disassembled and repaired with standard tools? Is this an easy fix, or am I better off just buying a whole new outside mirror assembly? Thankx for your help now and in the past.
Joe R.
Portage, IN
Answer:
Many times this is an easy, no parts repair. Behind the mirror glass is a plastic backing plate with sockets to accept square plastic rods with ball shaped ends. The balls snap into the plastic sockets, the square rods have teeth, which are driven directly from the electric motors.
Sometimes the repair can be made without removing the mirror, I use a small pair of needle nose pliers with a ninety degree angle. I cover the inside of the jaws of the pliers with duct tape and by carefully reaching behind the mirror, gently grasp and hold the loose plastic rod. By pushing on the face of the mirror (glass), it is usually possible to snap the loose ball end of the rod into the socket on the back of the glass.
@Copyright Pat Goss all rights reserved 06/28/02 | |
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Date Updated Thursday, August 01, 2002
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