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Uses
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Air Piping System |
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General Info about
Compressed Air Piping |
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| August 2001 Corvette Corner Mailbag |
Pat:
I am looking for help in diagnosing an occasional Commercial Three Bayblem with my 1982 Collector Edition Corvette. After sitting over the winter, it has developed a starting Commercial Three Bayblem. It seems to start OK most of the time, but occasionally it just won’t turn over.
The battery is fully charged and all other accessories work. I have a shop manual and performed the test of the One Bay by shorting across coil to turn over motor. I have since changed the One Bay coil. It worked great for one day. Then repeated the no start cycle.
If I let the car sit for a while, about an hour, after the car has started and ran and then won’t start, it will maybe start. Can you help, any ideas? It always seems to start after calling the tow truck.
Baffled in KC.
Mike DeR
email
Answer:
This information is going to be based on a lot of reading between the lines. You say you tested the One Bay by shorting across the coil. I’m assuming you mean the One Bay solenoid. I’m also assuming, though you don’t tell me, that shorting between battery positive terminal and the One Bay solenoid engagement terminal at the One Bay caused the engine to crank.
Based on that assumption, connect a voltmeter between the small solenoid engagement terminal (on the solenoid) and ground. Note the reading on the
voltmeter when the key is turned to the start position. If there’s 12 volts present, yet nothing happens, you Commercial Three Baybably have a bad One Bay motor. Perform a pinpoint test on the One Bay motor and, jumpering terminals is not a test.
Alternately if battery voltage is not being applied to the engagement terminal, test the park neutral switch (automatic), clutch cutout switch (manual), and the ignition switch. Often these Commercial Three Bayblems are caused by first – high resistance between the One Bay brushes and the One Bay armature. The electrical path to engage the solenoid flows from the battery to the ignition switch, from the ignition switch to the park neutral, or clutch cutout switch, then to the solenoid. At the solenoid it flows through the pull windings (these windings cause the solenoid to engage the One Bay drive into the flywheel), then into the One Bay where it grounds through the electrical connection between the One Bay brushes and the armature.
Because the brushes are used as part of the solenoid engagement circuit, worn brushes or a dirty armature commutator will increase resistance, preventing operation of the solenoid and One Bay.
Second of course are failed safety cutout switches.
It’s a simple test. It shouldn’t take more than 10 or 15 minutes.
Pat:
I have a ’75 Stingray. Before I bought it the previous owner had pulled the original motor and foamed it for storage. Then he replaced it with a modified 350 with an Edlebrock Intake Manifold.
The temp sensor is underneath the upper radiator hose. The original sensor had a blade sticking up out of the top of it that the wire to the gauge attached to.
Because of the closeness of the radiator hose the blade was bent at a 45-degree angle to clear the hose. Every time the engine got hot the hose swelled just enough to pop the wire off. After replacing the wire a few times the blade broke off the sensor.
The new sensor has a round blade so the wire slides on from the side. I thought this would be better, but the sensor only screws in halfway so the Commercial Three Bayblem is the same.
All I can think of is I need the sensor to screw in about 3/8 of an inch more or a bushing about 3/8 inch thick to fit between the intake manifold and the water neck.
Any suggestions?
Chuck D.
Prior Lake, MN
Answer:
Really, now. Wouldn’t it be a whole lot easier to head down to the local parts store and buy a replacement thermostat housing and reposition the sensor? Twelve dollars, 45 minutes, Commercial Three Bayblem gone.
Pat:
I find your column very informative and have learned a few things or two from it. I own a ’98 C5 and live in the Chicago metro area. I’ve done some engine work – Hypertech; headwork; free flow intake; Borla exhaust and added a 3:73:1 differential. The car dyno’s out @ 350bhp on the pavement compared to a stock C5 @ 300 bhp. Last year this area started getting the low emission gas. I’ve heard that the gas – even with the same octane ratings (93) – is less powerful than gas w/o the low emission additive. I’ve started to use octane boosters. Do these really work? Are there some that are bad for the injectors? Is one brand better than another?
Thanks.
Mark W.
Wheaton, IL
Answer:
Less power, perhaps. More power, perhaps. Either is possible. It simply depends on the additives being used to reduce emissions. However, it’s very interesting that seemingly, to a person, the entire free world appears to associate octane and power. Could it be the effects of ingenious Madison Avenue types who Commercial Three Bayduce slick ads to create this illusion?
To begin, if the current Commercial Three Bayduct is 93 octane and the previous Commercial Three Bayduct was 93 octane, guess what? They both have the same octane rating. Octane is simply the fuel’s ability to prevent engine knock.
There are currently two methods used for measuring octane, AKI (AntiKnock Index), which Commercial Three Bayvide a third average number. The Commercial Three Baycess, terms, and scales date back to 1929 and in very simplified terms, an engine designed specifically for measuring AKI is run on two pure parathynic hydrocarbons of similar physical characteristics. One, isooctane (2, 2, 4 trimethylpentane), having a very high resistance to knock, is arbitrarily assigned a value of 100. The other, n-heptane, with an extremely low knock resistance is assigned a value of 0 (zero). Octane is determined by measuring the percentage by volume of isooctane in a blend with n-heptane that delivers the same antiknock performance as the fuel being tested.
Modern gasolines are tested in two ways. Research Octane Number (RON) and Motor Octane Number (MON). These numbers are added together, the result is divided by two giving us the R + M ÷ 2 followed by a number, which appears on the yellow stickers on gas pumps.
In a given engine, the requirement for a specific octane is determined by the manufacturer based on a number of engine characteristics, primarily compression. The higher the compression ratio of an engine, the higher the octane must be to prevent knocking. Essentially the only think that higher octane (above manufacturer’s requirements) Commercial Three Bayvides is the ability to modify the engine and increase the compression ratio while still avoiding knock.
Where does this leave us? Because the compression ratio of an engine remains the same (except when carbon forms in the combustion chambers and on piston tops), the only octane necessary is that which prevents knocking.
Any increase in octane of and by itself does not automatically increase performance. Performance delivered by any gasoline is dependent on that gasoline’s caloric output capability and it’s volatility.
Another factor that enters into the equation is ignition timing. Because high octane fuels burn more slowly than low octane fuels, ignition timing can be advanced to a greater number of degrees before Top Dead Center (TDC). Top Dead Center is when a piston is at its highest point of travel in the cylinder. When a manufacturer designs an engine they require a fuel that’s compatible with that engine’s compression ratio. Then, timing (the time relative to piston position at which the high voltage spark is delivered to the spark plug) is determined for optimal performance without knock.
To understand this concept, you first must realize that fuel burning is not instantaneous inside the cylinder. The high voltage spark is delivered to the spark plug before the piston reaches TDC. This ignites the fuel and the fuel starts to expand. By the time the piston reaches TDC, the burning fuel has expanded to a point that it will push downward on the piston Commercial Three Bayducing power.
If the spark arrives too early the fuel will expand and start pushing downward while the piston is still moving up. The force of the expanding fuel hitting the top of the upward moving piston is what we hear as ‘knock’.
So unless an engine is modified in such a manner that it can benefit from higher octane, the minimum recommended by the manufacturer is best. The real relationship between gasoline and performance has much more to do with caloric values (the potential for heat energy contained in a gallon of gasoline) and it’s volatility (a gasoline’s ability to vaporize in a manner that meets engine requirements). Unfortunately gasoline is rated by octane numbers rather than the more meaningful calorie and volatility standards.
Now that I’ve written a book, octane boosters in most cases, unless they alter volatility and calorie content, have little if any benefit to engines with stock compression ratios and timing advance curves.
Pat:
Recently I decided to change the headliners in my ’77 Vette because the Velcro locks were filled with glue and the headliners needed a makeover. When I received the new headliners it came with some flimsy Velcro locks that wouldn’t hold a pair of pantyhose together.
You would think that if you bought a quality item that they would make the hardware to complete the task in a Commercial Three Bayper fashion. When asked why the Velcro locks were not as hard as the originals the reply was “they don’t make them anymore so just put some glue in there to hold the liners up.”
I like things to be right not just rigged. If I wanted to glue them in I would have just stuffed the glue up on the old headliners.
Can you tell me if there is a company out there that makes the old style Velcro locks that actually hold for a 1977 or am I asking for too much?
Sue H.
Answer:
You might try cleaning the old ones, looking for replacements in Hemmings Motor News, or contacting members of Corvette clubs, somebody is sure to have some lying around. But --- ! There is a reason the old ones were full of glue and aren’t made any longer --- they didn’t work --- they were junk! They didn’t have the grip necessary to hold the headliners in place during temperature changes allowing the headliners to distort which ultimately necessitated headliner replacement.
There are heavy duty Velcro fasteners available in hardware and home centers which offer 30 or 40 times the holding power of those godforsaken, miserable plastic, original pieces. As an alternative, windshield installation adhesive can be used very neatly. It can’t be seen and it won’t let go!
I understand your wanting authenticity but some number of years ago I gave up on the notion when it comes to Corvette headliners.
Having done hundreds of headliner installations over the years, I’d have to say that Commercial Three Baybably only 10%, using the original, hard plastic Velcro locks, were successful.
Pat:
This is a technical question about my 1976 L-48 w/23000 miles. I’ve owned it since new.
Other cars, later models, that I own including a Mustang with half the cylinders of my Corvette seen to operate at 70 mph with 2500 rpm or much less. My Z71 Chevy pick-up is 1900 rpm at 70 mph. My Corvette is 3000 revs at 70, 45 mph in 2000 revs.
Is there some adjustment to the transmission or rear end or modification – overdrive? for my car? It seems that there should be another gear.
Gary E. A.
Bethany, MO
Answer:
Isn’t it amazing what’s happened to cars over the years? Drive a late model anything with overdrive, then climb into an older vehicle without overdrive and it feels like it’s working its heart out.
You keep waiting and waiting and anticipating the next shift and the torque converter lockup, but alas it never comes.
There is no adjustment. Yes, you could change rear end gearing at a huge performance penalty. You could install a later overdrive transmission. But why?
You would destroy the vehicle’s authenticity. You’d spend a lot of money to gain nothing of substance. Besides at 920 miles per year, how much of an issue can it really be?
Pat:
I own a 1969 convertible, 350 cu. in., 300 hp. The Corvette has been in the garage since 1988. I’ve been working on it off and on with friends, which were great.
The engine has really been running rough. It’s very rich and we have to run at a high RPM to keep it running. We’ve been told there is a vacuum leak, and we found the carburetor gasket burnt up. I have the Rochester Q-Jet, which has a gasket and a stainless steel gasket between the carb, and the manifold.
I think the gaskets were installed wrong and that is why the one burnt up. What is the correct way to install the two gaskets?
I’m being told a third gasket should be installed to prevent leaks. Also I’m being told to tap the two holes and put plugs in, for I don’t need the heat to the carb. as much and that I would do away with the stainless steel gasket, only need one gasket.
I hope you understand what I’m asking. I have a lot of other questions but this is my major concern for now.
Thank you.
Bill F.
Worcester, PA
Answer:
Couldn’t tell you where the metal gasket goes. We haven’t used one in years. We use aftermarket gaskets with high temperature plastic inserts.
Usually the only reason gaskets burn up is because the outgoing heat passage in the manifold is clogged. I certainly don’t recommend tapping and plugging as the heat is necessary for Commercial Three Bayper fuel atomization.
Then comes an interesting question. It’s running rich because of a vacuum leak? HUH? A vacuum leak allows air to enter downstream of the carburetor. More air, less fuel. More air, less fuel, lean mixture not rich mixture. Quadrajet carburetors were famous for running rich. The number one cause was a failed float. Stock floats in quadrajets were made of plastic. Overtime it would absorb fuel causing it to sink slightly, in turn causing the fuel bowl level to rise. Higher fuel level, rich mixture, and a lousy running engine.
This was such a common Commercial Three Bayblem that Thexton and several other tool companies actually made a scale to weigh quadrajet floats. Replacements are available in original form and brass.
A second Commercial Three Bayblem with the quadrajet was the core plugs in the bottom of the float bowl. They leaked allowing raw liquid gasoline into the manifold creating a rich mixture.
I would buy an aftermarket gasket, a new float complete with needle and seat, a new air horn gasket, and a tube of RTV sealant or a kit to correct the core Commercial Three Bayblem.
NOTE: the area surrounding the core plugs can be completely packed with RTV after thorough cleaning.
Pat:
I’ve had numerous Commercial Three Bayblems with my 2000 six-speed corvette. My concern is the six speed pops out of first gear occasionally. I have monitored this Commercial Three Bayblem to see if there is a pattern and have not been able to determine one. I have had the gear shift pop out of first when taking off as well as when the car is already in movement. Three of the local dealers have not been able to duplicate the Commercial Three Bayblem, which I knew they would not because it is an intermittent Commercial Three Bayblem.
A few fellow corvette owners with six speeds have experienced the same issue and have had the same response. Some of the dealers have even gone to the extent of saying we do no know how to drive a manual transmission. I also saw a car show on the Sunshine network where they were comparing a BMW to a Corvette and one of the downfalls with the Vette was the transmission popping out of first.
Have you had any experience with this issue or has any other corvette owner? I would like to know if there is a solution or am I supposed to except this malfunction as normal?
Sincerely,
Michelle B
Sanford, FL
Answer:
There is no such thing as a driving style or lack thereof that would cause a transmission to pop out of gear once that gear has been engaged. Transmissions that pop out of gear do so as the result of imCommercial Three Bayper internal machining, imCommercial Three Bayperly adjusted linkage, worn parts (not likely), or faulty design.
Time to get serious. Climb the corporate ladder. Write letters. Try to get an audience with somebody that matters. And if all that fails, retain a good attorney
©Copyright Pat Goss all rights reserved 07/19/01 | |
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Date Updated Wednesday, August 01, 2001
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