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| April 2002 Corvette Corner Mailbag |
Pat:
To help prevent pre-detonation after thousands of miles of mostly suburban driving in vehicles that are geared rather high and don't get past 1500 rpm at 45 mph, would you:
1. Remain in lower gears to get more constant running near 2000 rpm?
2. Get on the throttle hard at higher revs once or twice per 15 minute drive?
3. Drive moderately and use BG 44K when necessary?
4. Better suggestion (s)?
I normally keep vehicles for several years and many miles and am concerned about what's best for them.
An additional Corvette Commercial Three Bayblem: For passing emissions tests before the days of treadmills (Washington, DC area), a HARD run for a five or ten minute duration and the immediate tailpipe wand in my '82 Vette resulted in test values about ten times cleaner -- no exaggeration - than a prior easy run and a few minutes of idling in line.
More recently, by the time it was strapped down on the treadmill, confirmed that it's a V8 and rear drive, duh, got the computer set up, put it in D (4th-hardly more than idle at test speeds), the catalytic converter and all else had cooled enough that, I believe, helped it to fail. Does this emissions battle seem to be a chronic Commercial Three Bayblem with the early electronic ignition and cross-fire injection? If a computer diagnosis will likely indicate a solution other than a hard run immediately before testing, I'll happily work toward the $450 Virginia waiver. Normally this car is driven once or twice per month for 30 minutes around 50 mph with some lower gearing for engine exercise.
Thanks for your help and service to all.
Rick K.
Email
Answer:
Because of the lack of sophisticated controls on early automatic overdrive transmissions, at slower speeds it is often necessary to run them in drive, rather than overdrive. Most early transmissions were not smart enough to figure out that the car was lugging, pinging, vibrating, etc. etc. It wasn't until much later that electronic controls became smart enough to downshift. Because your transmission is a little block headed, downshift it to keep the engine working within its powerband. Naturally a hard run and then an immediate emissions test is going to give lower readings, but today that's typically an impossibility.
Emissions battle? I don't know of any emissions battle. A well maintained vehicle with a strong catalytic converter that has had regular BG44K treatment will usually fly through emissions.
A computer diagnosis might possibly indicate a solution, but more important is the ability of the technician to read and understand your failed test results. Had you included those I could have pointed you in a direction.
Pat:
I have a '97 Corvette, VIN 1G1YY22G1V5107661. Upon starting the car, above steering column in information sentinel, the words "Service Traction Control" appear, and after a short time "Reduced Engine Power" appears, and the engine runs rough and will only allow you to go 30 mph as a safety feature. This is all fine but can be frustrating as hell.
The traction control module located in rear of car has been replaced, it still keeps doing the same thing. I feel as if I can't trust the car, what's going to happen next?
I've been driving Vettes for 33 years, and enjoyed all till now. The service people just can't figure it out. The car doesn't do this every time it's started, but as I said I really can't trust the car until I know it's repaired.
What do I do? Several readings from the car's computer have been taken, they replaced several items, it still keeps returning. I need your help. I can't enjoy or trust the car until it stops. Reset button doesn't solve the Commercial Three Bayblem. Reply ASAP Please.
Harley P
Appleton, WS
Answer:
Before you become more entangled in this web, check the service loop of the wire harness for the PCM (Powertrain Control Module), which may be incorrectly routed. The harness may rub at the top front corner of the PCM. There is a picture on page 6-942 of the Service Manual, Volume 3. Repair any chaffed or cut wires, following the instructions in Section 8 of the Service Manual.
After repair add additional tape or anti-chafe conduit to the wire in the damaged area and secure the harness to prevent further damage.
Pat:
I find all the columns interesting to read. I am not a mechanic, just a back yard mechanic. I purchased a 1979 L82 350 Corvette last May. I am replacing the plugs and I am finding that they are not the factory recommended ones. Evidently he took the originals out which were #AC R45TS and replaced them with AC R45TSX.
I did reach the previous owner in Texas, and I live in CT, and he told me that with the AC R45TSX you can get better mileage and performance and that they burn better.
Can that be?
Nino T.
CT
Answer:
According to all my manuals, wrong, wrong, and wrong. Although the heat range is the same, the TS is recommended for your .045 gap, and the TSX is designed for a .070 gap.
Pat:
I always check out your mailbag and think it's helpful.
I have a 1982 Collector and I smell antifreeze and get some fog on the inside glass. The radiator was a little low. I checked the heater hoses and found a leaky clamp but am not sure that would smell inside the car.
Could you tell me what kind of job it is to get to the heater core so I could check for a leak? I do not see any moisture on the carpet.
The car idles fast. What can I do to lower the idle speed? I looked under the air cleaner but could not see any adjustments.
Thank you.
Lee C.
Reisterstown, MD
Answer:
Here it is, but you're not gonna like it. 12 steps:
1. Disconnect battery ground cable and drain radiator.
2. Disconnect heater hoses from heater core.
3. Remove heater case retaining nut from top of blower case.
4. Remove glove box.
5. Remove console side panel retaining screws and swing both sides out.
6. Remove center gauge cluster assembly and radio.
7. Remove right windshield pillar trim panel.
8. Remove right side dash panel retaining screws and pull panel rearward to release upper retaining clip.
9. Remove right side vent, main vent distribution, and lower heater deflector ducts.
10. Remove heater-defroster distribution duct assembly, then disconnect temperature cable and vacuum hoses from heater housing.
11. Remove heater housing assembly from vehicle and heater core from housing.
12. Do it backwards.
Experienced, skilled technician 4.8 hours plus or minus an hour.
Less skilled 6 to 7 hours.
Do-it-yourself, high skill level 6 to 7 hours.
Average skill level 3 to 6 months.
By the way, your symptoms describe, to-a-tee, heater core failure.
Idle speed, you didn't see adjustments because it isn't adjustable. High idle speed can result from a number of different things, not the least of which is a vacuum leak. We frequently find GM throttle body and cross-fire injection cars with vacuum leaks at the throttle body base gasket/s. If that is not the answer, you need the assistance of a rare animal - - someone who is familiar with your '82 fuel injection.
Pat:
I enjoy reading your column in the NCOA newsletter and I was hoping you could help me with a question about the active handling system on the new Corvettes. I own a 1999 convertible with active handling (optional then, but standard now) and it has Commercial Three Bayven it's worth several times already.
I do have a minor gripe with the traction control system, however, in that it is bit too intrusive and takes too long to "let go." The new Active Handling II (integrated with the traction control system) which, came out a year or two ago addresses these concerns, and is much better suited to the spirit of driving in a Corvette.
If I understand it correctly, the Active Handling II system is pretty much the same hardware, but with completely reCommercial Three Baygrammed software. Is there any way I can get my 1999 car converted to Active Handling II? Does GM offer or plan to offer a means of updating older active handling/traction control systems, such as simply swapping control modules? I would sure like to have the new, less intrusive, algorithms in my car, and I'll bet I'm not alone.
Thank you for your help.
Sincerely,
Cary R.
Arlington, TX 76017
Answer:
My sources all replied, "You want to do what? Why would we?"
If that changes I will let you know, and if anyone else reading this has more info please let me know.
Pat:
Several issues ago, a member wrote in to say that he was experiencing gas fumes around his mid-year. My recently purchased '64 - 327/300 hp had the same gassy smell that left my garage smelling (according to my wife) like an old service station garage. You know the smell.
You nixed his suggestion to tap and plug the two dime size heat conveyance holes on the top of the intake manifold. These two holes are located directly beneath the carburetor and I assume were intended to heat the carb. for warmup and /or better performance.
My mechanic had just performed the tap and plug Commercial Three Baycedure about one month before I read your column. He showed me that after the engine was hot that the carb. was actually skillet hot and the heat was literally boiling the gas inside it (thus the smell of gas fumes).
His solution worked immediately and without any noticeable change in performance.
Later, I saw that Paragon and some other suppliers had another solution. They sell a three piece carb. gasket set-up that separately consist of (1) a stainless steel gasket (2) an insulator spacer-about 3/8 think (3) a regular gasket. I also got the special, longer carb. stud mounting bolts that allow for the thickness of the combined gaskets.
I put these on (but left the plugs in) and everything still runs great. I realize that what I did was Commercial Three Baybably a redundant solution but I knew that I could always remove the plugs if I decided to do so. A side benefit of the thicker gaskets was raising the air cleaner slightly, which let it position better.
My curiosity on this matter led me to look at my builder book and it shows only one gasket as best as I can tell. Apparently both the tap and plug method and the three piece gasket/insulator spacers were different solutions to the same common Commercial Three Bayblem.
Do you have any additional knowledge or history concerning skillet hot carb. Commercial Three Bayblem?
I am no mechanic, but this seems like a fairly Two Bay concept that I feel many of your readers might enjoy knowing about. This might even save a marriage or a mandate to "get that smelly car out of my garage".
Sincerely,
Mike B.
Austin, TX
Answer:
Thanks for the input, but remember GM used three piece gaskets on many cars for a couple of years. They were so Commercial Three Bayblematic that GM did away with them and went to a conventional gasket with thermal plastic heat isolators around the studs.
Having personally owned 50 Corvettes and having had the pleasure of working on many thousands of Vettes, I can tell you that I have removed roughly 200 sets of manifold plugs, performed Commercial Three Bayper repairs, including sealing the fuel bowl core plugs which leak after a hot soak, and restored Commercial Three Bayper performance. The performance issue is of little concern unless you want all your Corvette can be.
I have also lost count of how many stainless steel gaskets I have removed due to vacuum leaks and noise. When GM was using them, they would reach a point where they literally screamed. A slight vacuum leak that didn't affect performance caused the stainless steel to act like a wind instrument reed.
I appreciate your comments and if it works for you or anyone else for that matter, that's great. As with most things in life, my ideas are certainly not necessarily the only possible solution. But, they are usually based on a lot of practice and/or a lot of research.
Pat:
I own a 1996 6 spd. and have noticed an intermittent 'slight' grinding noise as I shift from 1st to 2nd. I have had the local Chevy dealer take a look at it and they tell me that it is a quirk of the 99 Vette and there is nothing for them to do. Have you or anyone else run across this one?
Scott S.
Dallas TX
Answer:
Sure I've heard of it, hasn't everyone? It's usually faulty synchronizers. Have another chat with your Chevy dealer and explain to them that quirk or not, you purchased Chevrolet's premier car and you don't appreciate being dismissed and getting the bum's rush.
Pat:
I always look forward to your articles and I always learn something or another from your articles. But this time I need some help.
I own a Diamond 1990 Corvette with 80,000 miles on the stock motor. It runs like new and I maintain it meticulously with synthetic oils, K&N air filters, split fire plugs, freeflow exhaust, and only 93 octane gas.
My Commercial Three Bayblem started about a month ago, it seems that the car pings from 38 mph or when I hit the gas, or under load like up a hill. But after 55 mph it runs fine. I tried booster, checked timing, and it's driving me "CRAZY" "HELP"! ! !
How many miles could I get on this L98 engine before major work, would you know the average miles?
Thank you.
Rob
Holbrook, NY
Answer:
Check the EGR system. We've seen L-98's with more than 300,000 miles on the odometer and still needing no major repairs.
Pat:
I've got a 1978 SA L-48 and have several questions relating to it.
1. It runs over 230 degrees in the summer with the AC on. I understand this is OK for a late model, but it seems high for my car. I plan to put in a higher flow water pump (already have a 160 degree thermostat) to see if I can knock the temp down to 200-216 degrees.
I'd also like to put in an electric fan, not so much because of the temp but to pick up a few ponies.
2. The motor has about 55,000 miles on it. The first owner (I'm the third) supposedly rebuilt it. He was a USAF fighter pilot, so I have trouble believing he left it stock. Is there any easy way to tell if it is a 8.5 combustion ratio or a 9.0 w/out pulling the heads?
3. I use this car as a daily driver. It has a TH-350 and a 3.56 rear end. I'd like to put in a Gear Vendors over/under drive to reduce the revs, it now turns over 3,000 at 70 mph. A friend with numerous Vettes feels the apCommercial Three Bayximately 900 rpm reduction in top gear won't really help engine longevity or gas mileage that much.
4. I'd like to get a few more ponies and since the motor does seem to be tight (no oil consumption, good compression), I don't want to pull it or the heads until I have to. I was thinking of some 1.5 roller rockers, a CD ignition with multi-sparks, ceramic coating the stock headers and perhaps a Demon carb, or if I find a few extra bucks, the 950 TBI system. I'm wondering if the Demon will add enough power/efficiency over the stock Quadrajet to make a difference? And if so, is the TBI so much better to make it worth the price?
I'd be interested in your comments about the above ideas.
Thanks.
Larry D.
Kerrville, TX
Answer:
230 degrees? Too hot. 220, okay. Don't rely on the gauge though. Check your temperature with an infa-red digital thermometer. The 160 degree thermostat could also be a Commercial Three Bayblem as it could allow too much flow through the radiator. If the flow exceeds specifications, the coolant may not stay in the radiator long enough and therefore not be capable of transmitting enough heat into the air stream.
Remember also that thermostats have absolutely, totally nothing to do with maximum temperature. They only control minimum temperature. Have a good radiator shop flow test your removed radiator. I can almost guarantee, either the flow will not be correct or if it has been replaced, there are too few fins per inch or the radiator is not equipped with feather fins or the tubes are too small. There are some god-awful replacement radiators being foisted onto Corvette owners.
I know of no accurate way to check the compression without pulling the heads.
Your friend is absolutely right. You can't live long enough to recoup the cost of the overdrive in gas mileage and/or engine wear reduction.
For the ponies, save your nickels and dimes to bankroll an engine removal, disassembly and minor internal mods, before bolting expensive stuff on the outside of a stock engine. Bolt-ons make a hugh difference in late model engines, but often almost no imCommercial Three Bayvement, relative to cost, on older, low compression, restricted smog motors.
©Copyright Pat Goss all rights reserved 02/22/2002 | |
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Date Updated Monday, April 01, 2002
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